October 29, 2010

Foodie Adventures: Whisky and Cheese Tasting

This post we are leaving the kitchen and doing some field research: Whisky and Cheese Pairing & Tasting at The Cheese School of San Francisco.

I know what you might be thinking, cheese and ...whisky?

Yes. Wine is not the only thing that can be paired with cheese.

In fact, that is the point of this place: to share and expand one's knowledge of cheese. They have classes ranging from Cheese 101 to wine and beer pairings to cheese tasting from specific regions of the globe.

Before I get any further, I definitely recommend anyone taking any of the classes they offer. Check the upcoming classes and find one that interests you. Grab a few friends too. I promise you wont be disappointed.

Both Mike and I went on this little excursion and greatly enjoyed the learning experience.

The Cheese School of San Francisco

Some time ago, Mike found out about this place and asked a bunch of our friends if anyone had any interest in going. Well, being fans of whisky, we decided to attend the whisky and cheese class. Whisky is my liquor of choice and I like to take any opportunity to learn more about it.

The School itself is tucked away upstairs on a quiet stretch of Powel St. (a few blocks from Pier 39) and right as we entered we were greeted by Sara (the owner), Sarah (the assistant) and a nice cocktail: Black Maple Hill Kentucky Bourbon*, Bundaberg Ginger Beer, and Regan's Orange Bitters No. 6 combined in one-third parts each garnished with a lime.

*Black Maple Hill Kentucky Bourbon is made from bulk whisky from Heaven Hill Distilleries but not bottled by them (as I found when I went searching for their website, of which there is none).

Mike and I then spent some time questioning Sara and Sarah, learning about their backgrounds, the history of the Cheese School, and some of their cheese preferences and suggestions (all the while getting a nice refresher on the cocktail). Sarah also works at Cowgirl Creamery in the Ferry Building and said to check them out as well.

After a nice chat, it was time to start the tasting.

Class Begins: Whisky and Cheese

Moving into the tasting room, everything was already setup with designated spaces per person. We were then introduced to our instructor for the evening: Wil Edwards.

Wil, a NYC native (as was made quite obvious), is a professional photographer and has been trained by master cheese makers worldwide. He did a great job of not only selecting the whisky and cheese for the evening, but did a great job of explaining professional cheese jargon into a more colloquial form. In addition, he paired some good accompaniments to help with the flavors of both the whisky and the cheese.

While there are numerous types of whisky, Wil decided to focus on Single Malt Scotch Whisky from a good mix of regions in Scotland. His main goal was to "do no harm" to either the whisky or the cheese flavors.


The Whisky

Whiskies listed left to right
Glen Grant 10-Year, Single Malt Scotch Whisky (Speyside)

Grade: A

This whisky was very approachable and smooth to the palate. Vanilla and oak flavors are prevalent in the nose. Palate begins with cinnamon and vanilla and ends with a little kick of pepper. Very delicate whisky. Recommended neat as diluting with water destroyed the flavor. Very easy to drink for those new to scotch whisky. This was my favorite of the batch neat before the pairings began.


Bowmore 12-Year, Single Malt Scotch Wishky (Islay)

Grade: B

Very smokey aroma. Taste begins peaty (as common with Islay distilleries) but ends with honey and smoke, salty. The whisky was very smooth, even with the peat flavors. Diluting with water enhances flavors. Good representation of Islay malt whisky, not for those new to whisky. 


Glen Garioch Founder's Reserve, Single Match Scotch Whisky (Highland)

Grade: C

Oak and vanilla nose. Palate begins sweet but is overcome by maltiness. The finish lingers at the back of your throat, finally ending with peat. Not a smooth whisky in any sense of the words. This was my least favorite of the selection.


The Glenrothes Vintage 1985, Single Malt Scotch Whisky (Speyside)

Grade: A-

The aroma begins with a nutty sweet smell but gives way to a hint of chocolate. The palate with smooth beginning with a honey and vanilla taste. The Glenrothes ends hard but is warming. Very good whisky. 


Auchentoshan Three Wood, Single Malt Scotch Whisky (Lowland)

Grade: A-

Triple distilled and super smooth, three different barrels are used beginning with American oak bourbon, then Spanish oloroso and ends with a sherry cask. You can really taste the influences of the three barrels. This whisky is sweet and warm and has numerous flavors that come through. The palate begins with a buttery almond flavor, moving to a dark liqueur fruit flavors, ending with oak. Good whisky and recommended for those who enjoy a fusion of flavors and influences from other regions. You'll notice that this whisky was the toughest to pair as the flavors have to mesh just right.


The Cheese

Start at 12o'clock and work clockwise.
Capriole, O'Banon
Provenance: Greenville, Indiana
Type: Pasteurized goat's milk

This cheese is wrapped in a chestnut leaf and soaked in bourbon. Very strong and pungent odor. Smooth without a lingering taste on the palate.

Grade: A-
Best Pairing: Glenrothes, hands down. The nutty, roasted flavor really goes well with the cheese.
Worst Pairing: Bowmore. The cheese cuts the peat flavor but overall the tastes just don't pair well.
Honorable Mention: This also goes well with the Glen Grant. The citrus flavors match well and enchance the flavors of the whisky. 


Brillat Savarin
Provenance: Île-de-France, France
Type: Pasteurized cow's milk

This is a triple creamed cheese with 75% butterfat. That enough should give you an understanding of the flavors of this cheese. Light, creamy and almost spreadable.

Grade: B+
Best Pairing: This pairs best with the Bowmore. The peaty flavors mesh with the creaminess is a very good harmony. The cheese becomes smokey and cuts the harshness of the peat.
Worst Pairing: Auchentoshan. 


Comte
Provenance: Jura/Franche-Comte, France
Type: Pasteurized cow's milk

This cheese is made in a specific region on the west side of the Alps in France. You can think of it as a better Gruyère. Tasty and not overwhelming. My favorite cheese of the bunch.

Grade: A+
Best Pairing: Glen Garioch. While this whisky was not my favorite neat, pairing it with the Comte changed the flavor completely.
Worst Pairing: Bowmore.


Abbaye de Belloc
Provenance: Pyrenees, France
Type: Pasteurized sheep's milk

Very light cheese, high in butter fat. Creamy.

Grade: B
Best Pairing: This did not really pair well with anything. If anything the Glen Grant, Bowmore and Glenrothes were mediocre.
Worst Pairing: Glen Garioch and Auchentoshan


Jasper Hill Farm, Moses Sleeper
Provenance: Greensboro, Vermont
Type: Pasteurized cow's milk

Kind of harsh taste.

Grade: C+
Best Pairing: Glen Garioch. The sweet and butterscotch taste takes a slight backseat to the cheese but then finishes well.
Worst Pairing: Auchentoshan
Honorable Mention: The Glenrothes Vintage pairs well but the cheese overpowers the whisky at the end.


Montgomery's Cheddar
Provenance: Somerset, England

Type:
 Raw cow's milk

This is a bandage wrapped cheddar. Strong aroma and taste. A very good cheddar.

Grade: A
Best Pairing: Glen Garioch. The tastes blend well together and give a very interesting finish (I'll let you try that one yourself).
Worst Pairing: Auchentoshan
Honorable Mention: The Glen Grant gives a good foundation by starting strong and then giving way to the cheese.


L'Amuse Gouda
Provenance: Holland
Type:
 Pasteurized cow's milk

Very hard to pair. This is a classic Gouda is texture and taste.

Grade: B
Best Pairing: The Glenrothes Vintage pairs well with this Gouda and neither over powers the other's flavors.
Worst Pairing: Auchentoshan. Alcohol destroyed the cheese flavor.
Honorable Mention: Glen Grant


Jasper Hill Farm, Bayley Hazen Blue
Provenance: Greensboro, Vermont
Type:
 Raw cow's milk

Just what you would expect from a blue cheese, intense with flavor.

Grade: B
Best Pairing: This is the only cheese that paired with the Auchentoshan and the two went very well together. You need an intense cheese to mix with the several flavors coming from the three casks the Auchentoshan sits in.
Worst Pairing: Bowmore.
Honorable Mention: The Glenrothes Vintage went nicely with the Hazen Blue.


The Accompaniments

  • Acme walnut levain & sweet baguette
  • June Taylor spiced pear butter
  • Marcona almonds
  • Dried apples & pears
  • Fresh Gala apples

With whisky you simply want to avoid salty foods. Sweet food and fruits compliment the liquor well.

    Final Thoughts

    This was quite an interesting experience. I was quite shocked at how some of the flavors palates changed when combined with a good (or bad) cheese pairing. As this was my first experience in the realm of artisan cheese, it was a very informative session as well. Like I said earlier, go to the Cheese School and try it out, I know I'll be back. Oh and if you needed visual proof this evening was a huge success, see below.


    3 comments:

    1. Cool post! Having been to the Franche-Comte region of France, I definitely agree that Comte is delicious. Also, my French father and I agree that Acme makes the best baguette in the Bay Area.

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    2. Of course, wine does not pair with cheese. There is an old saying: Buy on fruit and sell on cheese. Dairy products coat the palate and thus hide any faults in the wine, while fruit sharpens the palate and shows up any faults.
      As a Scot, I regularly eat cheese with whisky and find goats' cheeses from the Pyrenees great with Highland malts. Speysides - or Bourbons go well with soft, creamy cheese like brie or camembert. Mature cheddars or goudas with the peaty varieties.

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